Road signs

Greetings all!

It has been a few days since we've written. Between fatique, a lack of internet connections and of course traveling, we've gotten behind. At any rate, today finds us in Monument Valley having arrived late last night. We toured Canyon Valley en route here [well a third of it since it is very broken up in terms of access] and totally enjoyed the massive buttes and mesas. The pictures we have taken, while technically good, are hugely inadequate to the task of describing the landscape.

One of the things we've made a point of doing is to hike nearly every day we are in a park. Today was no exception. We took a 4 wheel drive road as far as we could and then hiked maybe 2 & 1/2 miles to the lip of a canyon. Our goal was to find the confluence of the Green and Colorado Rivers. Alas, we did not and we might even been within a short distance but not have known it. No matter really - we found a large flat rock and enjoyed the moment with not a soul within 10 miles of us.

The title of this blog speaks to a feature of American roads that I've not seen as much elsewhere. Roadside signs marking events, topographical features and quirky little stories. These signs are literally everywhere and while in NH, I would occasionally stop by them for the 2 minute it took to read them. Out here, we've really made an effort to stop by as many as we can. They tell of stories important enough to someone out there that they research it, fund it, make a lasting posting, and go to the effort to erect it at the spot. They speak of outlaws hiding out in a canyon and being starved out and feeling grateful it was not the ranchers that they had robbed that found them. They tell of geologic uprisings, hardy travelers with 7 children and a tolerant wife living in a dirt floor hut for 10 years. They tell of prairie dogs, antellope, elk and that bears have been recently sighted. They share animal protection strategies such as don't fight a bear if he attacks [right.....] but do fight a mountain lion. And mind you, this is all contextual in that you, while reading this sign, are actually IN bear or mountain lion country so it is QUITE relevant.

So, for what it is worth, take the time to read these signs. Even around the area you live. Amazing stories can be found. And it has the added benefit of slowing you and [and us] down.

Spent a few days in Salt lake city - saw the major buildings of the Mormon faith. Had my usual aversions but a pleasant day nevertheless. Found an art gallery and a comedy club later that night. Also a very nice Italian restaurant.

Wound our way down to Arches National Monument and took three hikes the later of which was to delicate arch [photo] and brought us down in the end to nearly total darkness. Good hikes though totalling about 8 miles. Spent last night in Moab Utah.

I will be thinking of that restaurant as we dine tonight since Monument Valley is in a Navajo reservation and there is NO alcohol.

Don't forget to write!

Matt

We PASSED our Peace Corps Medicals!

Well that sort of sums up the BIG news on this end. We have the final review to go through but based on everything we've heard from them, we have two slots reserved in a english speaking Central or South American country. For us this is really big news and we are both delighted and scared to death...in just about equal measures.

Spent the day in Boise and will until we leave on Friday. Did an 8 mile hike high into the foothills overlooking Boise. VERY dry but oddly enough, there were the occasional puddle at 4,000 feet all by itself without any other water around. Plus, they have had no rain for some time. At any rate, a good hike in a very different climate than we are used to. Ric and I spent the evening at a sports bar [Cheerleaders] with our wives watching the Red Sox crush the Rockies. Ric and Kathy have been extremely gracious hosts - something we have been blessed with the entire trip. It was wonderful to meet their family, new baby and of course to play with Dexter their Golden.

The next day, did some mandatory car cleaning [do you have any idea just how groddy the car can get essentially living out of it?} and then played 18 holes of golf with Ric and one of his buddies. Played pretty well considering that I haven't hit a ball in 2 months. Then to dinner at their favorite downscale and very fun restaurant. Enjoyed the evening.

Took off for Salt Lake City and made a few stops along the way. One was a huge canyon that outlaws used to hide in until the local constabulary realized that all they had to do was to starve them out. Then on to Salt lake and to tour Antelope Island in the middle of the Salt Lake. Very beautiful and essentially unchanged since it's creation. Among other considerations on the island is that they raise Bisson to help repopulate Yellowstone National Park.

Onto SLC to find that the hotel we had booked had changed its address on our nav system so that was a bit of a pain to find out where they actually were. Plan to stay here tomorrow and then off to Monument Park.

Finally, just for curiosityI signed on to the VITAL website to see how the project I managed was going....to find out that my sign on had been revoked. VERY odd and disquieting feeling. Guess it is over?

Matt

Boise, Idaho

Arrived at Ric and Kathy's after a long day of mountainous,curvy roads. Drove past the Snake River and the Salmon River. Yesterday set out to discover downtown Boise, a city nestled in the valley surrounded by mts. Happened upon the Anne Frank Human Rights Memorial, a park whose purpose is to educate the world abouy human rights. There were a series of 40 quotes from people discussing the human condition. Some of Anne Frank's quotes were included as well. I was as moved by the park and it's surroundings as I was when I visited Anne Frank's place of hiding in Amsterdam. A tree was planted by a friend of Anne's whose parents gave Anne the diary that she wrote in. They presented it to her at her 13th birthday party. How ironic that the diary would prove to be her saving grace while she was hiding. Incredible coincidence. Matt and I strolled along the Greenbelt parks bordering the Boise River. Temp was in the 70's ( yeah, I actually wore sandals), then sat by the river enjoying the soothing sound of the river, the sun, the foliage. This is actually the first time on the trip that we've sat in one spot and just contemplated life, being in the moment. Then we visited the Boise Art Museum which had a display of photographs by Laura McPhee. The exhibit was actually assembled by the MFA in Boston! An elderly man who was obviously a docent followed me from exhibit to exhibit pointing out unique features. His sharing of his knowledge of the exhibits added immeasurabely to my enjoyment and understanding of the art. He was incredulous that we were on the road for two months. He recommended that we drive through Hell's Canyon. I replied that's how we arrived in Boise, all downhill! Yikes! The diversity of the landscape is mind boggling at times. All in all it was a perfect day and much appreciated after the long drive the previous day. Met Ric and Kathy's daughter, son-in-law and their 10 month of daughter, Audrey. Oh, and their golden retriever, Dexter. Capped off the evening by having dinner at restaurant with an Argentine flair. Great fun! A man came to our table and made delicious guacamole from scratch--- from cutting the avocado in half, depitting it, chopping it, mashing it and adding seasoning! First time I've witnessed that feat! Hope all is well with all of you, Kare.

The day in Yakima Washington

Today was a 'down' day in that we needed not to drive and to attend to some details. Items such as clean laundry allow our friends to let us visit and not attract a pack of wolves looking for the road kill. Changing the oil was also on the agenda with oOver 5,000 miles so far this trip. Also, Kare had a minor fender bender last night in her mission to get our dinner at the local Chinese diner. A somewhat impatient driver attempted to pass her on the right as she made a right hand turn. Basically a bumping but still a bit of a pain. These days make it possible to enjoy the sights later and see what is right here in front of our noses.

I wandered about town, went to a farmers market found a small but intriguing little park that had the original copy of the treaty between the Indians and the US Government ceding so much of their land. Also a copy of a letter / telegram from WWII informing the next of kin of a soldiers passing on the battlefield. Too much of that going on today as well.

Visited a bunch of wineries today and bought some to ship home and some to bring to our friends in Boise Idaho. met a guy who worked for the BLM and got some interesting perspective on what their job is. VERY broad responsibilities. Caves to trees, to mining, to vast tracks of open prairie and much more. We also visited a town nearby where they had painted maybe 30 murals on their buildings (LARGE murals) showing their history. This is an indian reservation and I think it was pretty balanced in the subject matter considering their history. Town was largely deserted as we wandered from mural to mural all about the town. A bit of a ghost town quality to it.

THEN THE RED SOX WON THE AL CHAMPIONSHIP!!!!

Idaho bound tomorrow!

Matt

Bellingham to Yakima, Wa

We had Dinner at the Black Cat, a restaurant in a restored building with balconies all around each level with a direct view to each floor below. After dinner Garth took us for a walk around the oceanside walkway. He pointed out the ferry that transports people and cars to Alaska. Ah, another dream destination! Not this trip though. Saturday drove through a mountain pass: when we entered Mt. Rainier Nat'l Park rain turned to snow. Rangers were posted in the park advising motorists without all wheel drive or chains to turn back due to 6" of snow and more falling. Keep in mind that there are no railings in the park so one slip is into a ditch 1,500 feet or more deep! The larch trees were a brilliant yellow and the only deciduous evergreens in the area. Massive, snow covered evergreens were a striking contrast to yellow larches. All of a sudden ,the tune Let It Snow came to mind and of course I had to sing it! We entered White Pass and discovered two cascading waterfalls. It was 32-39 degrees F. The sun eventually emerged and the terrain changed dramatically to sheer, treeless cliffs that had a blocklike appearance as if someone had purposefully chiseled the columns. The culprit was actually lava that had flowed over uneven terrain. Learned that they are referred to as entrapments. Will have to discuss it with our son-in-law, the geologist. Hi Ryan and Sarah! I'm still amazed at the rivers and lakes within Washington State. The perpetual cloudy days with clear nights, and frequent rain would deter me from living here. Plan to explore the wineries today as there are 40 within the Yakima area. A delightful way to spend a Sunday afternoon, don't you think? All for now, Kare

Vancouver, Canada!

Today was Vancouver day - in spite of the heavy rain that fell most of the day. Toured a compact and beautiful Chinese garden dedicated to peace between two peoples. I have always been inspired by oriental gardens of any sort. The art of simple expression - well placed and crafted shapes that calm the mind while creating energy.

We did something we've not done for many many years and that was to go into a 'head shop'. They are somewhat casual in BC about pot use [no we didn't and don't] and the shops around show it. It was very much like walking into the 60's in a somewhat limited way.

Had lunch on the revolving restaurant of the Towers...very nice very long lunch.

Off to visit my nephew Garth in Bellington Washington. Very nice after all these hotels to sleep in a home and be with Garth as family. His roommate, Dave, very personable and both young men interesting to talk to. Would have liked to meet Emily Garths GF but no luck on this visit. Also got my dog fix with Garths very active VERY well mannered Yellow Lab. Had my first dinner in a brothel last night. Interesting to say the least!

Off to Yakima tomorrow over the two mountain passes. I will let Kare describe those sections. Surfice to say, I am glad we have an all wheel drive and had chains on board.

Btw, in case you are wondering...the brothel was a brothel 50 years ago and restored to original condition.

Matt

First encounter with snow

It was bound to happen sooner or later and today was the day. We left Kelowna, BC on a cloudy, rainy day. We weren't complaining as we've been blessed with sunny days since our departure. What we weren't planning on was driving in snow. Driving through a mountain pass ( man, Canada certainly has its share ) we encountered rain, then sleet, then snow. It certainly made for great photos, however, the curvy up, up, up, then the down, down, down made for some tense moments. Let's just say that while Matt was driving I was super attentive looking for animals along the side of the road. We'd seen far too many wildlife along the roadside, [we had a very close call missing an elk by less than a foot yesterday in broad daylight] so we both stayed focused. We stopped at a trucker's diner called Eastgate ,where we overheard the locals discussing an accident that had just occurred on the section we were about to drive on. Fortunately, with Matt's driving prowess and the help of XM radio folk Village station, we arrived safely in Vancouver, Canada. He's watching the Red Sox game as I write. Go Red Sox!
The trucker's diner [also, a lonely outpost]had magazines to read so I grabbed British Columbia and Matt grabbed an issue of National Geographic. Not exactly what we expected at a truck stop. There was actually a pay phone ( hard to come by in the US now), post office boxes and a Greyhound bus terminal. We were 30 miles from the next town, in an area with NO cell phone coverage and had to traverse yet more curvy, mountainous roads. I think I'll be able to go up and come down the Mt. Washington auto road in NH with my eyes open from now on! Can't wait to see the city of Vancouver tomorrow before we head to the Seattle area to visit our nephew, Garth. Wishing for the straight roads of the midwest! I never thought I'd say that! Happy days, Kare